Inauguration Day

I was gently rocking in my hammock trying to find a clear signal on BBC when history was made this week. It feels so weird being so far away from all the action. Although, Barack's popularity has even reached my little corner of the world. And I take great pride in telling people Barack and I are from "le meme village."
I still remember first hearing about Barack. It was early in the 2004 Democratic Senate primaries. The family had been out very late and I wanted to make sure my Dad didn't fall asleep at the wheel. So I engaged him in a conversation neither of us would tire of - politics. I was probably ranting about Oberwies. But I remember my Dad saying "You know who you have to look out for? Who's going to be a real force on the political scene? Barack Obama." "Who?" "Ba-rack O-ba-ma." "Oh."
Eyeroll.
But a couple of months later I was registering people to vote on behalf of Barack (and myself, I was only 17). It's bittersweet for me not being in Chicago right now. But I'll get to watch all the speeches in 2 years. And I get to do something I'm really proud of; represent Barack, the US Government, and, of course, change.

Whacking Day

or at least that's what I've decided to name it. I don't know the actual name of the fete I attended this weekend. I've learned not to expect what will happen in any given day here. On Friday, family from all over Togo started arriving- sons and daughters who have moved to the big cities. Which is why I heard more 'anasara' whispers than usual. Saturday the village gathered in the usual spot under the big mango tree and next to the Mosque. These fetes are always akward for me because I have to sit with all the village elders. A young white woman with all the old men who can't communicate with each other beyond salutations. The teenage guys came out in pairs and taunted each other with sticks. They made extravagent gestures and swung at the air. From what I can gather, they went around all night threatening each other- African Ghost in the Graveyard! Saturday night was 'la danse da les femmes.' Two guys drumming on some overturned metal bowls while women moved their feet just as fast, kicking up the dust. I just laughed at how I could find the same beat on a corner in Chicago. But even I can admit I can't dance like that. Sunday morning was the climax of the fete - when the village gathered again to watch the guys beat each other with sticks. No joke. They always stopped before someone got hurt. But it was still hard to watch. And yet part of me wanted to drag Mr. Creepy McBecome-my-second-wife-even-though-I'm-43 into the circle and beat him, gaurdian angel style. There was no clear winner and it just ended abruptly and everyone left. This is why I'm still so confused about what happened this weekend: there were noticably more elders at the fete, but I didn't have to wear my complet. And there was electricity! For two glorious nights! I didn't sleep because I was too excited I had the opportunity to watch all the DVDs I got for Christmas. And Colbert Christmas was absolutely worth the wait.

Bonne Fete tout le monde! Jan. 1, 2009

I hope everyone had a great holiday. Mine was very low key. I went to a friend's village and enjoyed the alcoholic beverages that I am not able to get in my village (I still think it's some kind of joke that I'm the only NRM volunteer from my stage who's in a dry village). I played a lot of cards and had fun cooking with my friends. We even made cookie dough! But not actual cookies because we don't have an oven.

I'm quickly adjusting to my new life here. I finally got furniture for my house. And today a friend hooked me up with a cat. He's an all black gri-gri cat. In the south, I could sell him for a lot of money (Vudu). His name is Agent Jack Bauer (10 points if you know the reference). And as far as I know, he was not born in a pool of gasoline.

Thanks so much to everyone for their holiday wishes, it makes my day to hear from you. Posts should be more regular from now on, assuming I have interesting things to say. I should have internet access about once a week now.

Miss you all very much.

Dec 15 2008

Six months ago, my life revolved around finishing up at Evergreen, some really cute kids, and spending my last bit of time in Oly (your best bet was to find me at the broho). Three months ago, it was all about family time in Chicago and getting in my last bit of summer freedom. Now here I am preparing for my first 80 degree plus holiday. I'm finally done with training and am now living on my own for the first time. My house is coming along nicely. I've added lots of personal touches with pictures; maps, cards from home, and Michael and Brooke's artwork.
I've heard that a large part of Peace Corps is fighting boredom. I have more time than ever to read, write, nap, and of course, learn kotokoli. Work will pick-up soon after the holidays. I have plans to start a tree nursery and I'm going to start a small garden in my compound.
Life has been hectic, though. Bush taxis are always an adventure. I arrived at post and 3 days later was the biggest Musli holiday of the year, Tabaski. I saw a lot of animals sacrificed. And attended quite a few fetes and showed off my dancing skills. There are things that I expected; I was prepared to live without running water and electricity. I accquired a 'West African Muslim Friendly' wardrobe before I left. But there have also been a lot of surprises. I've been suffering from frequent insomnia that's either caused by stress, my malaria medication, or the bats that are living in my house. My frequent hilarious texts that I'm able to receive from Max remind me that maybe I'm not alone en brousse. And the kids here are more amazing than I could have ever imagined.

In the City fof Lome, Where the Streets are Made of Sand and the Robbers Hold Your Hand

It's official!
I'm a Peace Corps volunteer. Swearing-in was yesterday at the US Embassy. I made a short speech in my local language, Kotokoli. Everyone was dressed in traditional Togolese Complets. We've been in Lome for a few days now, preparing to go to post. Saturday I'm off to Kemeni.

I had an amazing birthday. My host mom had a huge party for me. She made a ton of food and everyone from Peace Corps in Nyogbo came; volunteers and formateurs. There was a bit of a roast, but it was all in good fun. I also received my first packages from the states on that day. So I feasted on Skippy and watched a lot of "It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia."

For Thanksgiving, Peace Corps came and cooked us all food. And we even met the turkeys the day before! I'm still veggie though). We played Football American and watched the Dark Knight. It definitely was not a Dilger Thanksgiving, but it was about the same number of people, just not in an overcowded basement.

I have largely been neglecting this site, but I promise that will change. Besides, I've just been in stage mainly studying french and trees. This is when the real fun begins.

With my host mom and her sister.


With the boys, Christian and Jake.


The NRM group at swear-in.


At my birthday party, my mom put a lot of work into that cake.


NRM ladies.

Bonjour Tout le Monde! 11/21/08

I want to send you all individual emails and tell you all about “that funny thing that happened in Africa” and how I wish you were here. But as it turns out my internet access sucks. Right now I'm in the village of Agou Nyogbo for training. It is near Kpalime, if you want to locate me on a map. The sights are filled with the expected; like women carrying everything and anything on their heads. And the unexpected; like the kids taking machetes with them to school to cut the lawn in the afternoon. There’s also a constant feeling of being in a petting zoo because the goats and chickens are everywhere. My time right now revolves around technical training, French and local language class, napping, and eating. Life’s pretty good right now. I’ve already had my first dress made and last week I was the belle of the ball at a drum circle where I danced with the best of them. I’m here until early December, when I officially swear-in as a PCV and move to post…

…Which is Kameni. It’s in the Centrale region, about 35km from Sokode. It is 7km off the Route Nationale. The post has a history of health volunteers, which I am really excited about because I can’t wait to do my first condom demonstration...in French. I start learning Cotokoli, the local language, next week. The past volunteer left me a great resource with all the information I could have ever wanted on the village. It’s a Muslim village, so I’ll be attending Mosque and saying goodbye to my shoulders and knees soon. There are a few schools in town, so I have a lot of opportunities for environ ed. I go on a post week for a few days the first week of December.

OH! And the beers here are 30oz standard. And they are strong. And gin comes in sachets here.

I miss you all and want to hear about what’s happening in your lives. Send me some love in the mail, so far only David Orr has written me. If you send it now I bet I get it for my birthday (hint, hint). And maybe some peanut butter.

I’m going to try to post pictures (and videos!) on my blog next week when I’m on my field trip.


Hello Tedders!

I hope everything is great with you. I’m sure school is going great and Luke is enjoying is Mom/Dad time. Life here is amazing. I still have another month of training and then it’s off to the bush on my own!
I’ve talked to a few current volunteers who visited South Africa during their service. I’m going to have my mom book the flight for me since my internet access is very sporadic. Once I know when I can get a flight, I’ll let you know either email or call.


Hello Miller Family!

I hope everything is great with you and the school year is moving right along (and that you’re learning lots of environmental things!) And I wanted to wish Grace a very happy birthday.

I'm alive. I have had sparse access to internet, but it will get better soon. Miss you all. Have a great Thanksgiving. I'm trying to put pictures up on facebook, so look for them there.